Each Cook Ought to Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.